Back on topic to the thread, I highly suggest using trees as an orchard crop if you don't mind yield being off at times (Hi Pecans). They may also be good for actual cover if jamal and co. come up to siege you. Or if you need firewood desperately.
Depending on where you are in the USA, you can probably plant these. Hardiness is noted after species name. These are just my recommened ones, I prefer native plants if possible unless foreign disease is raping them:
Chestnut (Castanea spp.) 3-8 Note: Depends on species heavily. Avoid native american ones because dumb idiot Sinophiles in the early 20th imported blight from China/Japan
American Chestnut (C. denata, C. pumila, C. ozarkensis) 2-8 Assuming SUNY released the line with blight immunity, otherwise avoid
Note: C. ozarkensis classification as seperate species debatable. C. Pumila and C. ozarkensis hardiness 6(?)-8. Latter is also critical endanged and only exists in fragments in the Ozarks.
Butternut (Juglans cinerea) 2-7 Note: Currently getting massacred by diease, but is useful if you live in like WY where its really cold. Get a hybrid with disease resistance or live outside natrual range.
American Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) 2-9 - Note: Not really edible until fully ripe, has other uses as dye, tanning. Long term graft incompatibility with D. Kaki (We're talking 30+ years here)
Asian Persimmon (D. kaki) 4-9 Note: Non astrigent ones are usually 8+, must be grafted to D. virgininana rootstock to not die from root rots.
Apricot (Prunus armeniaca) 4-9 Note: Higher zones may not set fruit due to chilling requirements
Pecan (Caya Illinoiensis) 4-10 Note: Graft compatible with other Caya species. Use water hickory if your area is waterlogged. Be careful which cultivar you plant since not always pollen compatible
Apples (Malus spp.) 3-10 Note: Depends on species.Mostly in the colder areas <8
"Walnuts" (Juglans spp. exc butternut) 4-9 Note: Depends on species, usually graft compatible.
Texas Persimmon (D. texana) 7-10 Note: Lives in arid calceric soils, doesn't like humidity, more of a grape like fruit used for wine or something. Useful tannins for dye/leather work. Not graft compatible with other Diospyros genus in US.
Peach/nectarines/plums (Prunus persica e al.) 5-9 Note: Not recommened in the US great plains since early freeze fucks everything over (So like TX/OK/AK/ND/SD )
New world "prunis species" (Prunus sect. Prunocerasus) 6+(?) Note: Includes desert crops. Highly varied so check with research. Lacking research due to lack of commercial production.
Non tree, vine like fruit:
Grapes Vitis spp. (4-10) Note: Most European grapes are 7-10, need to be grafted to american rootstocks (specifically: V. routundfolia) so they don't get raped by phylloxera. Native grapes are astringent and don't taste "as good". Avoid places where its hot and humid at night (Hi, Texas). As you can imagine for something that is a niche crop, many, MANY disease issues. Also needs lots of training and pruning (not worth imho).
Kiwis (Actinidia spp.) 4-12) Note: In US outside of FL probably grow A. arguta since it is 4-8, others are tropical. Be prepared to suffer since they can grow up to 20 feet per YEAR.
Tomatos/Cucumbers/others: Check with your local extention/ online, too many to list here
>How long until I get fruit
3-10 years (average 5), grafting mature stock may help induce earlier fruit production
>How the fuck do I graft?
Go read a book. I will warn tree grafting is very difficult versus say, tomatos/ cucurbites
>Best time to take cuttings?
When plant is dormant. Not always, research plant in question.
>Strelok what if I live in a desert?
Plant local cactus have fun
or Texas Persimmon (D. texana), otherwise good luck supplying 40+ gallons of water a day for when the end of the world comes.
>Strelok what about fruits like oranges?
Unless some jackass finds a citrius greening immune species, that entire genus is fucked in 30 years.
>Strelok what about caffine?
Get yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria) 7-9 it's technically a tree but everyone thinks its a shrub
, shit is like tea but native to the southern US, higher caffine content than coffee or tea, and wont get rekt by disease (Coffee is fucked if they don't figure out a cure to coffee rust in a decade or so)
>What about almonds?
Almods are the reason California is running out of water, that shit is really water intensive and literally dies if you look at it weird.
>I have a question you didn't answer here!
Ask in the thread and I might answer.