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GFS - Gardening, Food acquisition and Stock keeping thread Strelok 07/30/2021 (Fri) 17:19:58 No.17689
Greetings Streloks, as anounced in >>17677, this is the thread about gardening, acquiring food and keeping stocks for long(er) Term survival. the main topics for this thread are -growing food for long term survival. -harvesting wild food if gardening is not an option for whatever reason. -legal and illegal food acquisition in areas where gardening is hard or undoable or in the case of insufficient skills. -wild gardening/guerilla gardening as alternative ways of growing food without owning land. >What is the purpose of the info ITT? This thread is aimed at providing information to every Strelok, on how to provide his own food, wether it is only for himself, or for a large fighting force. This is not only important for Post-collapse scenarios, but also an important factor of gaining freedom by independence from the government and society. >what does this have to do with /k/? At the time of the thread creation, /k/ is the board for weapons, combat and outdoorsmanship. A part of every armed conflict is the provisioning of food for the combatants to upkeep morale and fighting ability. Knowing how to grow and how to acquire food in any conditions is an important part of sustaining a fighting force, as the past has shown that a hungry soldier cannot win a conflict, and looting, even if an option, is only a short term solution, that cannot fully replace a stable supply of fresh provisions. Therefore, i see this as a quite important, and unfortunately overlooked aspect of /k/. >What goes in regards to posting. I'm not playing janny, but i'd prefer to keep this thread focused on the 4 main topics at the beginning of the Post. Related questions and discussion are welcome, and as long as it stays roughly on topic, i see the threads purpose as fulfilled. >Is there an end goal? A possible end goal would be a summarised sheet of information, that could (after extensive QC) be added to the boo/k/ "a world turned upside down", and a separate, condensed copy collected in an lightweight pamphlet to help aspiring streloks and newfags in obtaining basic information about starting to gain independence. >How often will Information be gathered into summary sheets? no idea, depends on how much traction the thread gets. An estimate would be one sheet every 100 posts, but as i said, that depends on the amount of content, and on it's quality.
as for the first question: >>17682 >Do Hügelkulturen work on sandy soil? Not in their usual form, no. What has to be done, is providing some form of erosion protection, in order to keep the wood at the base of the Hügelkultur covered to facilitate rotting. For this purpose, gaps and pockets of air between the wood can be filled with wood chips or grass clippings, and a few layers of news paper or grass clippings can be put at the base of the Hügel to prevent drainage and erosion. Otherwise, Hügelkultur works with practically any soil, as long as it's properties are taken into consideration.
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I think the 4x4x4 potato box/chicken wire cylinder is a must-have if your climate allows for potato growth. If it doesn't look for whatever tuber happens to grow there. Most tubers are edible so long as they aren't poisonous, some just require more chewing than others.
I have an experiment going on with more mobile chicken coops and greenhouses/grow tents. Shelter Systems makes a decent product, even if the chinks can't label the parts to save their bugmen lives. If these turn out well for growing food and medicinal plants, I'll let you guys know. One thing's for sure is that I want to grow a fuck ton of spicy peppers, partly because I like spicy stuff, but they also make great companion plants for gardens and other grows since they help discourage deer, bears, bugs and other pests. Mint is also good for this, especially since my neck of the woods has catnip growing all over the place, though peppermint is the one most recommended for keeping rodents away. When it comes to transplanting or just generally higher yields, a friend recommended to me a mix of Mammoth P beneficial microbes, a calcium and magnesium supplament, and unsulphered molasses l. Ive had good luck with the following recipe: 5 gallons of water 1ml Mammoth P 10tbsp molasses 25ml CalMag the PH should be around 6.0 to 6.3, but that's just in my area so ymmv.
Wasn't there a cooking thread or am I just imagining things? Anyways sounds like a good topic to start so I'll begin it with a general nutritional question about fat content in food. I have no scientific basis to go off of to know when you are consuming too much fat, all I try to do is listen to how my body feels afterwards to determine if i'm fulfilling my nutritional needs. Also when looking at different food groups is there one group that provides a better quality of fat than the others?
>>17690 >name of the pic Mind if I ask you whether or not you're Hungarian? Just because I can't really see this type of land cultivation here in glorious magyarland.
>>17704 The main problem with those tater-boxes, is that they require you to fill them with high quality soil, or mulch, which you'd have to get from somewhere. And if you already have a patch of soil that good, why not plant the taters there instead? Sure, you could use your compost as well, but then again, you could spread the compost on the tater patch too. So unless you really need to grow as many potatoes in as tiny an area as possible, don't waste your prescious soil on this box. And if you are in a situation where maximizing the output from an area that small matters, you probably don't have a garden large enough for you to be removing parts of your soil from it. You'd be better off buying soil. To be clear, I am not dissing them as an option. If you want to /neeed to grow taters on a small area, they are a perfectly fine option. But please don't waste your own precious soil/mulch on them.
>>19175 Boxes like that might be a reasonable choice for burdock or yam growing since both of those crops have much larger and deep roots than potatoes and are a lot more intensive to dig.
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>>17689 One of the most important things today to own when it comes to food is an energy efficient freezer. One cannot understand it's importance, it's even more important than to own a fridge. If anyone of you Streloks are still young, when you get your own place, buy the biggest and best freezer you can find. Ignore those shitty fridge/freezer combos. Why? The reason for that is that a freezer allows you to save a butt load of money in the long run, save you time and it allows you to preserve fresh food for several weeks as long as you have electricity. How does it do that? Well thanks to having a big ass freezer you can buy meat and vegetables when they are cheap or marketed down and simply chuck them into your freezer and they will be preserved until you need them. You can also precook whole meals, put them in bags and then unfreeze them when you need them. A fridge/freezer combo is too small to do that seriously and a fridge alone isn't cold enough. This is even more important when you live in the city and don't have a place to grow your own food. Think about how all this Corona bullshit started, at first it was only a few week of lockdown. People with a good stocked freezer didn't need to go out and if they owned a food supply of canned and preserved food on top they could hold out for a month and longer without a drop in live quality. Having a freezer is also important if you have read this thread and want to do any indoor gardening, because you lack the land or a suitable environment to grow stuff outside. Indoor gardening requires a certain amount of space to be reasonable and your harvesting routine is different than outdoors. To control the humidity and avoid mold you have to at least think about something on the size of a midsize terrarium and be able to preserve large quantities of your harvest on at quick notice. A freezer will you help with that. Avoid plants that require pollination and you should invest into a plant light, as your plants grow weak if they don't get the right kind of light, just the light through the window is to little for most crops.
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Does /k/ have any advice on growing wheat? More specifically the winter wheat variety used for making bread. I live in the dark red area of the cotton belt for reference.
>>19175 For me the advantage is that I don't have a yard but I have physical concrete space I can plant basic crops in. It's similar to how I have space to grow tomatoes, but no dirt of my own to do it in. My city is far enough out West that I could actually flee if I needed to, but I can set one of these up on my front porch with a privacy lattice that I plan to grow poison ivy on to keep out squirrels, animals, children, and vegetable thieves for less-than-ideal but not apocalyptic scenarios.
>>19177 Can't recommend this enough. I make meals for 12-20 people at a time, store 90% in the foot freezer in individualized freezeable/microwaveable containers, and pull out a few at a time for lunches throughout the month. It's an economic solution and the top-down approach while harder to rummage through ensures that your shit stays frozen for days at a time during power outages so long as you maintain ~50% or higher capacity.
>>19182 >Winter wheat You could grow it with "dry irrigation" (so not flooding the field like retards). Be careful of what you plant as certain windbreaks/plants will attract bugs. Also be careful of elevation since most diseases you can deal with are fungi and do not travel up elevations easily. Check your soil so you don't have root rot (Gaeumannomyces tritici and Cephalosporium gramineum). Don't eat ergoted wheat unless you want to get high and die from chronic ergot exposure. I would ask you specifically what part of the dark red area you are in (since even then there is much variation) but that's a pretty glow move and I don't like getting ran over
>>19179 Just, like, throw it on the ground and let it grow. Winter wheat, as the name indicates, is usually sown in fall, and gets harvested in spring. Wheat needs to be dry when it's harvested or it rots very quickly. A week of no rain is best, but three days or so tend to be acceptable (also depends on the strength of the sun). Don't harvest before it's properly ripened either. I'd say the golden color is an indicator, but there's shades of it so unless you've got experience that's no real help. There's testers for moisture levels, but I'm not sure how much they cost. Generally, you want more rain when it just starts to look like wheat, and little to no rain when it starts drying out and going golden. Bushel up, hang from rafters and let it dry a bit further, then thresh it. I think the nips have combs to thresh smaller quantities of rice, might be worth a look to see if they'd work for wheat too. Don't forget to store it in rat-proof containers, or suspended off the ground.
>>19182 >poison ivy as deterrant To those who aren't knowledgable enough to decern garden weeds from poison ivy by the time they get the rash they'll have had made baked potatoes. As an immediate deterrant maybe you could try wrapping thorns around the box instead of risking getting urushiol oil from the ivy on your clothes when you go to manage your garden, thats how people get the rash dispite thinking they handled it properly plus the shit can become an overgrown mess getting mixed with your potato leaves. Maybe even try kale, most burgerstans would run at the site of it.
>>19189 Just plant raspberries. They produce edible fruit and are 100% effective at blocking anything larger than a rat from crossing through. https://ytb.trom.tf/watch?v=RuzLXxbGc4c
>>19182 Another thing I hadn't thought about in favor of poison ivy is to instead set out warning signs with bullet points to really sell the toxicity of the plant to a would be theif with a WARNING or a DOT toxic placard with skull and cross bones. WARNING >Poison Ivy secretes toxic colorless odorless oil >Can cause severe full body rash lasting weeks >Rash CANNOT be cured >Oils persist for weeks on clothing >Burning the plant can be lethal if inhaled This really makes me want to start investing in pest repelling plants and other highly toxic exotic crops that thr consequences are little known by normalcattle.
>>19182 >I plan to grow poison ivy on to keep out squirrels, animals Don't bother for that reason. Most animals are completely immune to poison ivy. Because it's not actually a toxin, it's an allergen that primarily only affects humans. It doesn't even affect humans uniformly. My grandma was immune. I think a lot of asians may be immune as well since they used a closely related plant to make lacquer from. If you want to keep things out just grow osage orange as a hedge and braid the branches. Or grow patches of stinging nettle, which is actually also both a useful cooked vegetable and source of fiber for textiles.
>>19203 I'm the Strelok who suggested stinging nettle back in the day originally. It works ok but it only really keeps out dogs, skunks, and raccoons.
>>17689 >harvesting wild food if gardening is not an option for whatever reason Don't collect plants from roads that are used by cars. The fumes pollute the ground and are taken in by the plants that grow alongside it. The same goes for roads and places that are heavily used by people to walk their dogs or have pick nicks. They will leave around plastic which also leeches into the soil. You also don't want to collect plants in regions that have factories who blow their shit all over the country side. You can ignore this advise in an emergency, but for regular usage be aware that a plant is only as healthy as it's surrounding. In my hometown there are a lot of ancient fruit trees I don't collect from for this very reason. They were planted in a time before cars and heavy industry. With lead us to this: -wild gardening/guerilla gardening as alternative ways of growing food without owning land. Guerilla gardening in the city is a leftist meme for publicity. They throw some dirt on the sidewalk, plant some flowers that will be dead in a week, make some picture and then never give a fuck about what they planted. Real gardening takes some work and dedication. In the city most grounds are polluted by decades of industrial usage. If you really want to plant crops in a city you need a raised bed and fill it with soil, which is a lot of work for anything serious. And then you have to deal with the problem that your plants need time to grow, at least half a year before they produce fruit. If in this time your garden is discovered and destroyed you start at zero. And that just covers the human side of things. Animals can easily destroy all your work if you don't take some time daily and make sure they don't eat your plants.
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>>19207 Well that's why I added osage orange. Nothing fucks with osage orange. The only thing in the US withe meaner thorns than osage is honey locust but honey locust really isn't amenable to be turned into a hedge. Honey locust thorns are useful for being turned into nails and the fruit is a good survival food though.
>>19212 The pollution combustion engines cause to surrounding plants is really overstated since most countries swapped to unleaded gasoline. Plants near roads are bad because runoff brings all the piss, shit, chemicals, and trash across it via water. Not because of a little smog (a little smog just keeps it from photosynthesizing as well resulting in smaller produce overall, not "bad for you" produce. Same with radiation for the most part).
>>19226 One alternative could be closely planted blackthorn(Prunus spinosa) it has a long history of being used as a living fence to ward property in Europe. It's thorny as fuck, the berries can be turned into jam and liqueur(have to be frozen once or they are sour) and their wood is used to make canes and clubs.
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>>17689 >what does this have to do with /k/? Gardening and warfare have a long history together, before the invention of barbed wire militaries all over the world relied heavily on trees and bushed to build fortifications. Farmers had the duty to plant trees and hedges alongside roads and boarders and together with simple trenches they created near impenetrable walls of greenery. Often the trees would also be cut to block the road for the enemy and bushed would be cut and bound to the ground to stop infantry from advancing against the own lines. There are many names for this, the most common is Abatis in English, but they are also known as Landwehr, Verhau or Gebück in German and Zaseka in slavic languages. They have been used by the ancient Romans and they were still used as late as World War 2. Europe is covered in small towers that seem pointless on their own, but in the past they guarded the entrances to these gigantic war hedges that covered Europe like a jigsaw puzzle. These wooden fortifications of Europe are truly one of the most overlooked aspect of European history as they proof how sophisticated our ancestors were compared to other cultures even with just basic things at their disposal. Anyone interested in guerilla warfare or in building a protected homestead in case SHTF is will advised to learn about these techniques. Btw. while searching for pictures for this post I found a great article about Russians growing tropical plants in arctic regions: https://www.lowtechmagazine.com/2020/04/fruit-trenches-cultivating-subtropical-plants-in-freezing-temperatures.html
alright, OP here, i've been away for quite some time now, but i finally found an opportunity to get back to this thread. >>19173 I am not, although i would really like to learn the language. It is so rare, that it could basically work like a secret language. As to the file name, the pic is stolen, because my artistic ability is as good as the Gun laws in the UK. >>19172 I am not a food expert, but i try to keep to a balanced diet. For fat, i recommend just eating meat and fish. If you like milk (i do), you can supplement your fat intake with it. Also, nuts provide fat in moderation. >>19177 believe it or not, i own a fridge-freezer combo, a an upright freezer, and i recently got an old chest freezer from a relative, So i can basically hoard supplies. Still, for long term food storage, i strongly recommend canned food, and please, consider getting into canning, it helps save money, and it is extremely efficient for saving veggies, fruit and meat for a very long time. >>19228 can confirm this one, since i live in a rural area with a bunch of roads and raspberries and rosehips, and i often ate them as a child. I'm still healthy and in good shape. Although, it should preferably not grow near fields, because that's where a lot of chemical contaminants like artificial fertilizers and pesticides and insecticides come from. >>19230 blackthorn grows in big clusters around my place (old farmstead). The advice with freezing them is absolutely needed, everyone who ever tried to eat those off the bush will agree. >5th pic Otto Ficker GmbH maximum kek >>19232 There are still a lot of these types of defences around, if you know what to look for. It's quite unassuming, but once you try to get through a thicket, you notice all the subtle hurdles that prevent a quick passage. The modern german "Knick" is, despite being simply for providing protection for wildlife, closely resembling those old defensive constructions.
>>19372 >plebbit spacing kill yourself. Back on topic to the thread, I highly suggest using trees as an orchard crop if you don't mind yield being off at times (Hi Pecans). They may also be good for actual cover if jamal and co. come up to siege you. Or if you need firewood desperately. Depending on where you are in the USA, you can probably plant these. Hardiness is noted after species name. These are just my recommened ones, I prefer native plants if possible unless foreign disease is raping them: Chestnut (Castanea spp.) 3-8 Note: Depends on species heavily. Avoid native american ones because dumb idiot Sinophiles in the early 20th imported blight from China/Japan American Chestnut (C. denata, C. pumila, C. ozarkensis) 2-8 Assuming SUNY released the line with blight immunity, otherwise avoid Note: C. ozarkensis classification as seperate species debatable. C. Pumila and C. ozarkensis hardiness 6(?)-8. Latter is also critical endanged and only exists in fragments in the Ozarks. Butternut (Juglans cinerea) 2-7 Note: Currently getting massacred by diease, but is useful if you live in like WY where its really cold. Get a hybrid with disease resistance or live outside natrual range. American Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) 2-9 - Note: Not really edible until fully ripe, has other uses as dye, tanning. Long term graft incompatibility with D. Kaki (We're talking 30+ years here) Asian Persimmon (D. kaki) 4-9 Note: Non astrigent ones are usually 8+, must be grafted to D. virgininana rootstock to not die from root rots. Apricot (Prunus armeniaca) 4-9 Note: Higher zones may not set fruit due to chilling requirements Pecan (Caya Illinoiensis) 4-10 Note: Graft compatible with other Caya species. Use water hickory if your area is waterlogged. Be careful which cultivar you plant since not always pollen compatible Apples (Malus spp.) 3-10 Note: Depends on species.Mostly in the colder areas <8 "Walnuts" (Juglans spp. exc butternut) 4-9 Note: Depends on species, usually graft compatible. Texas Persimmon (D. texana) 7-10 Note: Lives in arid calceric soils, doesn't like humidity, more of a grape like fruit used for wine or something. Useful tannins for dye/leather work. Not graft compatible with other Diospyros genus in US. Peach/nectarines/plums (Prunus persica e al.) 5-9 Note: Not recommened in the US great plains since early freeze fucks everything over (So like TX/OK/AK/ND/SD ) New world "prunis species" (Prunus sect. Prunocerasus) 6+(?) Note: Includes desert crops. Highly varied so check with research. Lacking research due to lack of commercial production. Non tree, vine like fruit: Grapes Vitis spp. (4-10) Note: Most European grapes are 7-10, need to be grafted to american rootstocks (specifically: V. routundfolia) so they don't get raped by phylloxera. Native grapes are astringent and don't taste "as good". Avoid places where its hot and humid at night (Hi, Texas). As you can imagine for something that is a niche crop, many, MANY disease issues. Also needs lots of training and pruning (not worth imho). Kiwis (Actinidia spp.) 4-12) Note: In US outside of FL probably grow A. arguta since it is 4-8, others are tropical. Be prepared to suffer since they can grow up to 20 feet per YEAR. Tomatos/Cucumbers/others: Check with your local extention/ online, too many to list here FAQ: >How long until I get fruit 3-10 years (average 5), grafting mature stock may help induce earlier fruit production >How the fuck do I graft? Go read a book. I will warn tree grafting is very difficult versus say, tomatos/ cucurbites >Best time to take cuttings? When plant is dormant. Not always, research plant in question. >Strelok what if I live in a desert? Plant local cactus have fun or Texas Persimmon (D. texana), otherwise good luck supplying 40+ gallons of water a day for when the end of the world comes. >Strelok what about fruits like oranges? Unless some jackass finds a citrius greening immune species, that entire genus is fucked in 30 years. >Strelok what about caffine? Get yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria) 7-9 it's technically a tree but everyone thinks its a shrub, shit is like tea but native to the southern US, higher caffine content than coffee or tea, and wont get rekt by disease (Coffee is fucked if they don't figure out a cure to coffee rust in a decade or so) >What about almonds? Almods are the reason California is running out of water, that shit is really water intensive and literally dies if you look at it weird. >I have a question you didn't answer here! Ask in the thread and I might answer.
>>19380 literally never used plebbit, and i have no idea what your problem is. but thanks for atleast providing useful info instead of just leaving a pile of steaming shit in the thread. You seem to have experience with orchard gardening. Did you ever work with cherry plums? how widespread are they in the US? I know they're quite widespread in Germany, and i use them a lot for making jams and preserves. They're quite tasty, too. Maybe if someone is interested, i can provide a little info about working with those.
>>19394 >chery plumbs I haven't seen any in the area I work in but I live in a cold as fuck area so.... USDA Zone 5-9 (there's a few zone 3 varities, no idea bout them). Not commonly seen in the great plains states or east coast due to the high likelyhood of early spring frosts causing blind nodes and fruit cracking issues (like with all prunus genus). Brown rot issue is an issue in the USA. Susceptible to disease due to lack of fuzz.
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>>19187 I apologize for the late reply; I've been busy with real life >Just, like, throw it on the ground and let it grow. Do you mean that in the most literal sense? Just throw it on the ground? I don't need to do any tilling? >>19186 Thanks anon. The area i have planned to plant the wheat at doesn't get flooded so I'm not worried about that. I am concerned about various pest like aphids and other annoyances but since this is the first year I'm not going to take it too hard on myself if shit goes sideways. Also, as for my location, I'm unwilling to reveal where I am but I was able to find some advice about planting wheat where I live. >>19380 Do you have any advice on processing water oak acorns? Does the process differ from other acorns? Also, what is your opinion on the water oak? I've heard some people claim it's basically a large weed but I don't really see where this is coming from. I know they can be messy but that only becomes a problem if you don't have wild life/ animals around to eat it.
>>19418 >throw it on the ground If you want to get really scientific, it depends on the seed cultivar. Most seeds have a specific planting depth otherwise will not germinate. Other have a hard requirement on the directionality of the seed. Wheats planted on large enough scale that it doesn't really matter. >water oak No idea on processing. For the tree? Takes ~20 years to set fruit, USDA zone 6 ish. Does not tolerate shade, extensive pruning,compaction (eg; you parking a truck on top of its roots), or drought at all. Somewhat resistant to sudden oak death (imho). Readly hybridizes with rest of oaks (its a fagaceae trait) and as thus expect for acorns to vary widely. If you are looking for this stuff in southern US, try grafting scab resistant pecan (Carya illinoinensis) onto water hickory rootstock (C. myristiciformis). You can, at least directly eat pecans.
>>19418 I am, more or less. To be accurate: Before throwing them on the ground, wet them for a couple hours, then add powdered clay on top and swirl in a circular motion, spraying with water and adding clay as necessary to form small clay balls of each seed. Then throw them on the ground, depending on type, either a bit after the harvest, covering them in the straw of the previous harvest, or in spring, about two weeks before weeds start coming up. If you're using previously untilled/unfarmed ground, start by using daikon and similar vegetables beforehand for two or three years to get the ground softer. Don't worry about weeds, they'll be less problems than you think if you stick to the instructions. Never remove more than you eat, all straw and such must return to the field to rot. Full method is in the books below. One thing that may require adjustment is watering: This was a method developed in a pretty humid part of Nippon, depending on how much it rains and how hot your summers get, you'll have to water.
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For anons considering Osage Orange gardening, right now is the end of the "harvest season" for the fruits, so you're going to see the seeds going for sale online in the next couple weeks if they aren't already. I'll be buying about 100 seeds and seeing if I can nurse some into growing over the winter (testing some in wet stratified soil as is recommended and some in plain dry soil that I won't wet until spring, the rest of the seeds staying in the fridge until spring) in my window so I can plant them outdoors next spring. Planning to give some to family members if they sprout good. A lot of gardening centers will be running clearance on their nursery pots as well soon I bet with going into Autumn.
Also the more I read up on these osage orange bushes, the more I get pissed off since the only reason they fell out of favor is because mass-farming machinery can't handle the bushes and barbed wire is faster. With bare minimum maintenance you have an effective insect-repellant bush that attracts earthworms/birds and scares off squirrels/rats/most mammals. They have a nice citrusy smell when not rotting, and they require virtually no maintenance past occasional watering during droughts after the first year and trimming after the second year. The wood is flexible and was used by Injuns to make bows, it burns like charcoal if your heat ever goes out, and all around it's just a great utility plant to have in your garden even if you're not using it for hedges. It prevents soil erosion and acts as an effective wind barrier too. Fuck, this plant is awesome so long as you put the bare minimum effort in to take care of it. I don't have the space for a hedge, but when I move in a few years I can just transplant the bushes from a two foot barrel pot into the ground. It sounds like they just grow like goldfish, so they'll be satisfied with whatever sized pot you decide to plant them in (and if you plant them outdoors with spacing they just grow like a tree). Hopefully these grow ok. I'm going to try to grow eight plants. 3 with proper watering indoors. 3 without proper watering indoors until spring. 2 that I'll just leave outside over the winter/not do anything to, and see what happens (1 in direct sunlight/exposure to the elements, 1 under a mesh chair). I want to see just how robust these guys are.
>>19621 If you want to take cuttings for propagation then the best times are late winter fro hard wood cuttings and june/july for soft wood cuttings.
Just ordered some Kale seeds to plant in the mean time while I wait for frost to end so I can germinate cucumbers, squash, eggplant, sweet peppers, cayene peppers and tabasco peppers for spring. I'm planning on starting the Kale seeds off in a raised grow box then resow in a pot after harvesting. I'll do the same to all the others when the time comes because the soil isn't soft enough. Long term i'ld like the ecosystem to consist of a balance of local flora supplimentary to the soil fertility. The real challenge will be staying organized so I wont get complacent and overlook something that might negatively impact growth. I've taken some steps like having a periodic table to physically reference WHAT PLANTS KRAVE [spoilee]C, N, and O.[/spoiler].Any tips on improving soil fertility without having to buy fertilizer?
>>19691 >Kale You may want to look into Everlasting Kale, especially the king thereof, the Taunton Deane. Came about in the Victorian times and was shared by cuttings from gardener to gardener. It has its main growth periods when there's little other vegetables, but it regrows fairly speedily all year round. One plant per person is a good idea, two to three if you tend towards a poor peasant's diet. Grows to a man's height, and has strong growth for 5-10 years, becoming sort of mini-tree like. Very hardy, but doesn't like drought at all. Needs to be kept under 0.7mm wide netting to protect from butterfly larvae, which will fucking murderize it by eating it all. Must be propagated by cuttings, as a century of being propagated left it virtually infertile. Try Ebay for cuttings. If the only ones you find are from britbongistan, consider messaging them to arrange an express-package (trust me, this thing's worth it, it's a miracle plant) and waiting for very early spring, when the plant is more vital than in fall, though fall cuttings may also serve. As for raising productivity: Never remove any cuttings from your garden. Straw, cutoffs, etc. must go back to where they came from, ideally composted. Biomass can be readily acquired by offering to mow other people's lawn. Just bring a cart to take all the grass, compost it, spread it. Chickens are good for fertility, and they tend to not damage plants after they've grown beyond a certain size. Just change the place you let them into now and then. If you butcher something, you can throw the blood in your compost bin. Human shit can be composted too, but must ripen for 3 years. Look up a design for a composting toilet if you're into this (ties into removing nothing from the garden, this gives what you ate back) Green manure helps. Consider adding a year for raising it to your rotation. Seed mixes for this are cheap. You can then either just cut it and let it rot over winter, or compost it.
>>17824 Will you eventually get beehives?
>>19623 >Osange It's a good latex (natrual rubber) plant too, I don't know of anyone vulcanizing rubber from it though. It probably would've gone extinct in the next thousands of years since its already evolved into a dead in. You could probably plant Parthenium argentatum in the US for a rubber plant though (assuimg you live in the desert/southern us) >>19691 >fertilizers Compost with some fermentation in a tank at 72F can do a lot. Just makes sure you don't have any disease in the material, and be sure you plant something that does well in the climate you are in (so don't go planting say, celery in a high salt area). Just remember the disease triangle. As a bonus, as long as your climate isn't too abnormal you shouldn't have disease issues. Just remember that you'll still get fucked by herbicide drift This shit is the no1 cause of agriculture lawsuits
>>19691 >>19693 I'm growing some sea kale right now. Hopefully the seedlings will get big enough to harden off before winter.

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