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The pleasure of being **hand**loaded inside Strelok 12/21/2020 (Mon) 21:59:10 No.11298
I don't see a reloading/handloading thread, so it's my turn to make it. Post your hot loads. I've started reloading shotshells, but I'm looking to get into slugs as well I have a rifled barrel for my shotgun, so I'm torn between trying to buy a slug mould that makes calibre slugs, and just dealing with any leading, or taking the more traditional route of sub-calbre slugs and a shot cup. Currently I'm leaning towards going with a .678 ball mould since it's a lot cheaper than the only moulds I can find for calibre slugs ($70 vs $160). Also the .678 ball works out to be just a bit over an ounce, probably closer to an ounce if I'm not using perfectly pure lead. That plus a standard shot cup wad makes finding reloading data easier, as well as saving money on the lead. Is it just me or is the Lyman reloading data very sparse for anything other than light trap loads? Obviously their slug data is only for the 2 types of slug they have moulds for, not surprising. This is making me somewhat cautious of buying the calibre mould since it makes a slug that's heaver than they Lyman foster slugs. Even outside of slugs, once you get into heavier/higher velocity loads there's just a smattering of random recipes. This is a large part of what's driving me towards the ball mould since I can skip the slug section that has very little data and just use 1oz shot load data. I pity the poor guy with a .410 that just wants to load some slugs, they don't even bother offering a section for .410 Anyone have experience with slug making or handloading in general?
>>11298 Most powder manufactures have load data for their powders on site. A book is a good thing to have, having the powder manuals themselves is another.
>>11298 >.410 that just wants to load some slugs Those are just light loaded 45-70.....
>>11327 >.410 slug diameter: .410 >45-70 bullet diameter: .458 I don't know about that, .038 off seems a bit rough on tolerance. And considering the low end of 45-70 loads are double the max chamber pressure for .410, and the cases seem like they would be too big for a .410 chamber, I'm not sure what you're proposing here.
>>11331 I dun goofed. .410 can be fired from a 45-70. So my answer is: just by a 45-70.
>>11346 And then there are those revolver that can fire both .45 Colt and .410 shotshell. But how does this work? If I understand correctly, part of the plastic fits into the rifled area, but it's not in contact with the wall of the chamber.
>>11349 The chambers on 45lc/.410 guns are far longer than what is needed for .45lc so they'll chamber a .410 shell properly.
>>11352 Does it mean that you can chamber .454 Casull in them, and make the cylinder go boom? Also, .45-70 is not straight-walled, is that a problem?
>>11353 I'd presume because the back of the shell especially is lose in the 45-70 chamber, this is basically guaranteed to destroy the hull.
>>11354 This. It will work, but you'll trash your hulls. You could also use brass for shot loads.
>>11357 That works great if you have a 45-70, but is little help for the poor strelok who got a .410, and doesn't want to pay $1-2 per slug
Could somebody tell me the case capacity of .25 ACP? It seems like this is one of the pieces of information that was lost somewhere in the way going from analogue to digital, because no webpage seems to have it.
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Is it difficult to reload .30 carbine? I've heard it was but I was never able to get the exact reason why.
>>11361 As per the Second Edition of Modern Reloading, its useful case capacity is 0.29cc. >>11385 .30 Carbine headspaces off its mouth like any other pistol calibers do. Sorta just need to keep brass around the length required for it to headspace correctly. If you load 9/40/45 you can load .30 no problem. >>11353 You can, but putting something that develops four times the pressure is asking to lose a hand. Isn't there a Judge rated for .454 anyway? .410 shells sorta rattle in a .45-70 chamber. Good luck hitting anything beyond 10 feet though.
>>11389 >You can, but putting something that develops four times the pressure is asking to lose a hand. That's why I wrote the part about the cylinder going boom. You"d think people would have kept Elmer's lessons in mind and make sure you can't turn your revolver into a pipe bomb with one simple trick, but that's clearly not the case. https://invidious.snopyta.org/watch?v=3t5X8f__vpk
I think I've got an odd one: I reload 7.62x39. Since the only gun I have in that caliber is an AR-15, (they're all ARs, and not a one in glorified-22) I've bought the "modified case" to see how long the chamber is -- and the bullet won't touch until COAL of 2.5" On small problem: if I want more than two rounds in my magazine, I'm limited to 2.46" which is the internal length of the D&H/ASC mags I have. Why reload the cheapest surplus round available? Because I want a heavier bullet. Aiming mostly for the 147gr 7.62 NATO pulls that seem to come from decomissioned thai ammo, but the AMAX 155gr is shooting fine too. Quickload says H335 would be the best, but I've used 1680, N110 from vv, and Aliant Reloader-7. I also have BL-C(2) for my grendel which is pretty similar although that chamber shipped at 2.19 and I had to get a throat reamer then didn't check often enough and now I have a 2.7 chamber just like my buddy's 7.62x39. My dream is to build a wildcat starting with 6.8 brass, a 50d neck and 7mm, 200gr Berger or Lapua projectiles. Again, Quickload says that the SF033 used in 5.45 would be the best -- you know, if anybody sold combloc powder separate from the projectiles. Winchester 296 might have come in second, or I might have been thinking of the raptor loads.
>>11608 Curious choice of caliber to reload considering that, what, at least 90% of available ammo is steel case. It would have been a lot easier for you if you had chose the 300 blackout. I have some 300 win mag and 338 win mag reloads that I will chronograph tomorrow
>>11621 >Curious choice of caliber to reload considering that, what, at least 90% of available ammo is steel case. Isn't poor ammo availability one of the big reasons to reload?
>>11634 >Isn't poor ammo availability one of the big reasons to reload? Yes it's one reason why you'd want to reload. Strelok above was just remarking on the odd choice of reloading steel casings since that is significantly more difficult than reloading brass.
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>>11621 90% of already loaded ammunition. I'm going to starline for bucket of brass (thus assured it's boxer primed) so if I find all the pieces afterwords I can reload it a half-to-full dozen times. Now, one site lists in their catalog, primed steel-case. Even if it was berdan primed I could still use it once with a load of my choice, which wouldn't be bad. What you guys should have commented on, if you were going to call me a fag for handloading ammo for my rifle, is I talked about .308 bullets for the x39 -- which is by tradition a .311 bore. Way I figure it, that's a heck of a lot better than the Mini-30 that provided a .308 and didn't bother to research that most-if-not-all off the shelf ammo is forced to size the bullet during firing. So I'm sacrificing some speed, but this particular $60 barrel offers about 4-5MOA with Red Tiger ammo anyway. I might just have to order a custom barrel for a new upper, and remember which one shoots anything, and which to keep the steel-cased surplus away from. >if you had chose the 300 blackout I disagree with the existence of 300BLK for the same reason I contest the existence of Short-and-Weak. The only reason either exist is enough people couldn't wrap their head, or hands, around the original, with which nothing was wrong. x39 on the AR platform is a solved problem. New bolt, magazine, and barrel. Your replacement parts kit needs to be chosen for this understanding as the extractor has enough different of a lip that your .223 extractor will break. Okay? It's not as close as 556/.223 are to each other. Now that we have that established let's work with what we actually have, and what we actually want. Me? I want to have built my AK by now, doggonit. That's why I chose x39 for the AR -- so I could have just one caliber for all my guns. </chuckles nervously>
So I haven't been able to find much but I bought a Mauser 71/84 and wanted to start reloading it. Primers are basically nowhere to be found, the bullets themselves run about $1.00 a pop and brass is similarly expensive. I have never reloaded in my life but wanted to know where I should start or if there was somewhere I should buy brass for long obsolete cartridges from.
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Store gave free box of 30-06 mystery cartridges (filthy, mismatched, and in open container) from an estate they bought with my purchase of a bullet puller. Any advice beyond pull the bullets, dump the powder where I want plants to grow, and reuse the case, primer and bullet (though bullets some look to be in shitty condition)?
>>11857 Midway and Grafs sometimes have it. The thing with the brass is its good for ~5 loadings. You can cut down on bullet cost with a mold. >>11648 I got tired of bolt breakages. Four replacements a year had me toss the x39 and just getting a .300 upper. Also if you're loading heavier x39 Hornady does offer a 150gr .311 bullet so you aren't free boring however little it is with a .310 bore.
>>11876 Right on, I will look there for some brass. I thought black powder brass cartridges were good for shooting until they just flat don't go back into the right shape anymore due to the lower chamber pressures involved. Complete brainlet follow up question but should I be giving blowjobs behind the boomer ranges to get large rifle primers about now? I assume that's what I'm going to need.
>>12010 BP corrosion can and will fuck brass over time. My .45lc lasts maybe 15 reloads where my .45-70 not so much.
>>11862 I wouldn't re-use the primer, not really worth the few cents you save. The powder is more likely to be good probably. You could just try using them as range food, see how poorly they perform.
>>12021 >You could just try using them as range food, see how poorly they perform. In that case he should use them with a bolt-action rifle, that's a safer option and it's also gentler on the brass so he can still reload them.
>>12013 If you clean the brass as soon as it is fired, it should do a little better, but yeah, it's not going to last forever. >>12010 Funnily we have no shortage of primers in leafistan, we're out of everything else including powder, but everyone still seems to have a decent selection of primers. Depends on the cartridges. New reproductions will almost definitely be large rifle boxer, but if you're finding surplus, it will probably be berdan primed, and you will have to drill it out to accept boxer primers. Someone posted instructions back on 8/k/ for doing the conversion on 7.62x54, hopefully someone still has those.
>>12021 >primer >few cents Primers are the real bottleneck to ammo production right now. The only 30-06 (which all this ammo is) that I have is a bolt action though.
>>12029 In the short term, yeah, I guess. But at that point you might want to just try firing a few, it's entirely likely most of them are still good. The powder will probably outlast the primer from what I understand.
>>11862 If you have a brass tumbler just toss the projectiles in there. Pop the primer however you choose and clean that up next, don't try to deprime with live primers though.
>>12013 >>12023 Another 2 probably brainlet questions then. I've seen talk about loading a black powder cartridge with an equivalent load of smokeless powder. Is this a thing that can be done safely in a 133 year old rifle or am I going to blow off my face? The other question is that I see different brass prices Bertram Brass is just over $3 ea at 20 per box on Huntingtons and RCC Brass is $5.41ea with a minimum purchase of 50. Is there an appreciable difference that would make it better for me to buy the more expensive brass or are RCC just up to jewish tricks?
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>>12153 You can yes, people do it for original Trapdoor Springfields, the problem is using jacketed bullets will destroy the soft rifling over time so stick to lead projectiles. I've honestly just stuck to black powder for stuff like that because heavily reduced smokeless loads can and will just get a bullet stuck in the bore. Also when it comes to brass I just use whatever is reasonably priced unless its known for neck/mouth splits or whatever.
>>12153 It has more to do with modern cartridges but there are manufacturing differences that will affect accuracy and minor differences in the loading. If you're not trying to make your rifle have match grade accuracy it doesn't matter much.
>>12273 Good to know thanks. I think as long as my antique can hit a building at 300 yards I'll be happy enough. I was playing with the notion of building a single shot rifle in 11mm Mauser just to give me something else to play with in the cartridge and maybe even hunt with it. That'll be a year or 2 down the road though. >>12154 Does anybody know where one might find the load data for smokeless powder in a black powder cartridge. I really would like to use something a little less corrosive if I could since I never feel absolutely sure that I have cleaned the parts completely. I was going to start casting my own bullets so no jackets of any kind, just soft lead. My dad has done it before and has most of the tools already, I just need a mold but some cunt sniped me on eBay today so the search continues. This is kind of an unrelated note but will a Martini Henry or 45-70 bandolier hold the 11mm Mauser cartridges? I want something to take to the range that's maybe a little more fun that pulling them out of a plastic box.
>>12317 >Does anybody know where one might find the load data for smokeless powder in a black powder cartridge. Don't. Pressure curve is too high. Get a dedicated black powder substitute.
>>12317 Usually the sheet that comes with the lee dies tends to have that data, also .45-70 bandoliers will work with 43 mauser.
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>>12366 So I ordered some dies and I'm now playing the waiting game. I need to get a bullet mold now. Do you Streloks think that it's worth it to spring for the double mold? I've never cast my own projectiles so I don't know how long it will take. Also, the equipment is at my parent's house which I normally only see on the weekends so there is kind of a time constraint I guess. Here's some pics I tried to start a milsurp thread on zzzchan while we were out of commission here. There was a guy on Gunbroker that had a fuck ton of 43 mauser and reloading equipment for it for $1500 but I just bought a vz 58 and can't afford that at the drop of a hat so Q_Q. </blogpost>
>>13167 You pour hot lead in, wait a second and knock them loose. I have six cell molds for a lot of my stuff, can crap out an asinine amount of projectiles in little to no time.
>>13167 Well I'm finally ready to start reloading. The bullet mold got here last Monday and the brass got here yesterday. I hope that next weekend I'll actually have time to make some cartridges. Nobody posts here anymore but I hope somebody at least lurks to share in my excitement. Will post news story when I blow myself up through sheer incompetence.
>>14781 Glad to hear of your progress Strelok. Stay safe and contentious with managing your setup.
>>14781 I'm guessing Strelok actually did an hero.
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https://yewtu.be/watch?v=RGoKCpFZxFI So the story of 7.7mm Jap is this: >they adopt machine guns chambered for .303 British for their aeroplanes >they like the projectile so much they neck down 8mm Mauser for it, and also make it semi-rimmed because they are used to that due to 6.5mm Jap >Nambu copies the VZ30, but that doesn't want to work properly with semi-rimmed cartridges, so the case design reverts back to the original rimless configuration >upon testing they find out that other machine guns work just fine with the rimless ammunition, but they still keep producing both types (I guess they didn't want the production lines to be idle) If I understand correctly you could make 7.7 Jap by necking down 8mm Mauser, and once you do that you can use projectiles and reloading tools meant for .303 British. But how hard is it to neck down a cartridge at home? On an other note, rechambering 7.7mm Arisakas for a plethora of other cartridges only requires a barrel change. Not that you should just do that, but if you have a beaten up one with a barrel that has no rifling left, then it's not the worst thing that could happen to that poor rifle. A more professional solution would be to add a sleeve to the inside of the barrel, and then the difference really is quite minimal. 6.5mm CM Arisaka when?
>>15140 .30-06 cases are generally the ones you use for 7.7 jap. You use projectiles and load data for .303 Brit. Its fairly simple to to make your own cases. 7.7 bores tend to be in rather excellent shape due to the type 99s being chrome lined, where as type 38s are shot to shit due to the lack of chrome lining and heavy jungle usage with corrosive ammo. arisakas tend to have feed problems with anything that isn't their original clambering.
>>15140 Now I'm even angrier at them for not just adopting 8mm Mauser straight, although it's somehow more understandable this way. Developing new projectiles when the already existing ones work perfectly for their purposes is a waste. But then they could have also adopted .303 British. >>15141 And is there a reasonably simple solution for 6.5mm Jap, or is that too irregular of a case? >arisakas tend to have feed problems with anything that isn't their original clambering. I guess the feedway is too hand-tailored for their own specific cartridges. On the other hand, according to wikipedia various versions were rechambered for a surprising variety of cartridges, including 8mm Mauser, .30-06, and even .303 British.
>>15146 I've seen people use everything from .220 Swift to .300 Savage based cartridges for 6.5 Jap, I have no clue on how they work for the fact it takes more than just running it through a die once and trimming. .30-06 to 7.7 is as simple as ramming it into the die and cutting the neck to length or around it. As for them not adopting 8mm, it probably has to do with them liking .303 and wanting it rimless.
>>15174 >As for them not adopting 8mm, it probably has to do with them liking .303 and wanting it rimless. No, they stuck the boolit into a 8mm Mauser case, but gave the case a small rim. They only (re)developed a rimless case for the Type 97 machine gun because the vz. 30 magazine didn't like the semi-rimmed ammo.
>>15137 Kek no. I just needed to get new handles because apparently the ones my dad had were riveted to their mold which is just fantastically retarded so I have those on the way. I also bought a Springfield Trapdoor Forager shotgun that needed some love to remove a rust welded firing pin so that took my attention. I swear to Christ I will get this done and post results when it works or my rifle explodes. I also wanted to ask if any anons here knew anything about lube and black powder brass cartridge reloads. AFAIK a prelubed patch for a .44 and 66 grains of black powder despite the normal load being 77 grains (basically a full case) because what I read was the lube keep fouling from being quite so bad and the reduction in charge not being that bad for accuracy especially since I want this to be more of a boomstick that looks cool to shoot rather than a precision shooting instrument,
>>15227 Use a filler to keep the BP compressed, bad things happen if its loose in the case like smokeless
>>15227 Alright, I didn't have time to shoot yet but I got some cartridges loaded. 5 rounds with 70 grains of FF black powder a lubed .44 wadding and a 370 grain projectile. I'm going to see about shooting it tomorrow after work.
>>15897 Well it only took 5 months since I originally asked >>11857 but I finally got out to shoot and it functioned flawlessly. Next time I will load all 20 cases I have and post results for accuracy.
>>15938 Fucking nice lad. Oh note on BP and brass, clean the shit out of that brass asap and get yourself a universal decapper die so you aren't fucking up your resizer with BP residue.
>>15941 Using Dad's reloading bench and there already happens to be just such a die so I'm set there. Does Brass rust like steel does with BP residue? I have preciesly zero experience with muzzleloaders and the like so I have only a vague notion of what I'm doing here. My master plan for shooting next time BTW is to fill the tube magazine and single shot to test for accuracy with 12 rounds then empty the tube if I experience no issues due to fouling from insufficient lubrication to keep the BP residue soft. I might just buy a pickelhaube and cartridge carrier to celebrate and LARP on camera for you fags. We'll have to see, posting pictures of myself online is still weird to me growing up with John "every interaction with a stranger is gonna get you killed so don't tell them anything about you" Walsh
>>15986 BP residue often corrodes the brass, usually speaking popping the primer and washing it under hot water is enough to stop it.
>>15986 >>15996 You may want to get an ultrasonic cleaner for brass prep- greased lightning and water in a 1:12 ratio works pretty good for getting gunk out. Doesn't polish the brass but works for getting things clean.
>>16004 Wouldn't you know it I already have one (or rather access to one in the same garage with all the other reloading stuff) I used it with kroil and about 15 other methods to get a firing pin out of my trapdoor forager breech block. Fuck that stupid firing pin spring. It took like 3 weekends whacking on it to get it to the point I could replace that stupid firing pin. When powder starts becoming available again I will try my Mauser with smokeless because I really hate how much cleaning it takes after a day of BP shooting.
>>16005 Try the Ballistol stuff for BP clean up.
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>>15141 >type 38s are shot to shit due to the lack of chrome lining and heavy jungle usage with corrosive ammo. I finally found a Type 38 rifle with a good bore and intact but refinished stock this weekend. I got lucky and she seems to be a good shooter, maybe even an exceptional one if I get my shit together. Pic related is two five shot groups from a bench with a sand bag at 100yds. The only problem is that it's chamber dimensions are about as tight as a washed up whore's pussy and the SAAMI spec PPU brass is getting an off center bulge. I'll see if I can correct it when I get the reloading dies. It seems to be a common problem with older Type 38s, there was a lot of variation in bore and chamber dimensions between arsenals and different years. Mine is from Koishikawa / Tokyo, with no series mark in the 500,XXX range and with a "B" and "triangle in circle" proof marks. I think that puts it in the 1920's somewhere for production year. I need to dig up my dremel and cutting wheels so I can chop a case in half and see how bad they are stretching. There's not much point in buying brass if the case heads separate after two or three reloads. Luckily forming your own brass should solve that problem, just with more effort.
>>16622 Same problem Lee-Enfields have, loose chambers. You'll get about 2-3 or so loads per brass.
>>16635 There is one interesting difference. Unlike the .303, the 6.5x50 headspaces on the shoulders, it's only "semi" rimmed. Because the Mauser style claw extractor only stops one side of the case from moving forward when the firing pin hits, the case is actually angled in the chamber when it ignites. When the pressure pushes the case head back against the bolt face the unsupported side stretches more, making it look like one side is bulged, or like it's trying to become a banana. That's probably why Bubba didn't cut it up for a durr rifle and just refinished the stock for a wall hanger. At least he greased the bore before letting it sit. I got my dies already. I'll see what happens when I try to re-size them over the weekend. If you are just learning or insist on doing everything by the book, then Arisakas are probably not the rifle for you. I'm glad I have been autistically reading shit. The PPU brass I ordered is labeled as 6.5x51 R Japanese on the bag but the head stamp on the brass is 6.5x50. It's just various labeling conventions blending together in Serbia.
>>16005 So follow up question to this. I just put together a couple weeks ago that 11mm mauser was originally loaded with a .43 caliber projectile with 77 grains of black powder. 45-70 gets its name from being a .45 caliber projectile (of presumably similar-ish mass) being propelled by 70 grains of black powder. Does it seem reasonable to use trapdoor 45-70 loads as a starting point to play with smokeless powder and if so what powder should I use? On a related note, I finally took video of me rapid firing. It's on my camera because I had to take the one out of my phone so I need to upload it to my PC next week and I think I'll post it. In other news, I got 2 new revolvers that I want to look at reloading for. A smith and Wesson hand ejector and an Iver Johnson safety automatic hammerless 3rd model in .32 Long and short respectively. Does anybody have experience with reloading these? I still need to find dies and powder and I'll have to see if my old man has the primers for it. Of course I'll also need a new bullet mold but one thing at a time.
>>17132 Do we know the bullet weight and muzzle velocity of these two cartridges? Although if the amount of black powder is a given, and you don't intend to chop off the barrel, then the only variable here is the bullet weight. And if we know the original load, then the real question is this: can the rifle still deal with what it was designed to take?
>>17132 Did you buy lee dies? If I recall they came with a sheet for smokeless loads. 3031 and 4198 if I recall were used at one point for big bore BP to smokeless.
>>17132 I think .43 to .458 is a bit big to consider reasonable and there are a lot more variables. I would look at case volume to bore ratio to compare them more accurately. That being said trap-door level 45-70 loads are limited to a bit over 20,000 psi, just use your head. Hodgen lists 4198 and 3031 on their website for 45-70. I would stick with something that has more bulk for lighter loads, under-filled cases can be dangerous. Trail boss is designed as a black powder replacement but I think Varget fills cases easy too. Varget is probably on the slower end of powders to try, IMR4198 and RL7 look like the fastest. Maybe try lurking some cowboy action shooting forums, or castboolits. Good luck finding powder, that decides what you use for the time being.
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>>17134 >>17177 Yeah, looking at actual load data seems like that's no bueno. 77 grains of BP with a 370 grain projectile out of a .43 hole is a bit further away than my shower thought assumed with 45-70's original loading of 70 grains of BP with a 405 and later 500 grain projectile out of a .45 hole. Anyway here's the video of me attempting rapid fire. I noticed some of the later shots got kind of hard to work the bolt but I expect that was mostly me trying to rush the next shot rather than fouling starting to cause issues.
I just got back from a few hour drive a monument park ( not gonna say which one out of anonymity) just shot a 4 pound cannon though it a blank shot although the muzzle flash was real and it was really loud, they added 4 ounces of gunpowder. I kept asking questions about cannon, and I ended up handloading the beautiful baby. I hope larper didn't get in trouble for letting me in, it was suppose to be blocked by rope. Usually historical reenacters take things too seriously but this one was cool. I can't imagine how loud and fun it would be if he added a pound and a half of black-powder
>>17134 >>17132 there's load data literally everywhere for a 45-70. However you won't be able to reload it because powder and primers are still absurdly expensive. What load you use depends on the rifle you're using and the barrel length. Longer barrel = more velocity. Modern gun = higher potential pressure = more velocity. If you are intent on shooting 45-70 and reloading for it one day, I recommend at least a 22" barrel to burn all the powder, and a strong lever gun. Marlin should be good to go. The powder to be used will probably be in the 4831/4955 range. They're not super slow magnum powders, just standard rifle powders on the slow side. I would prefer the 4831 range with a heavy bullet. I use 4955 myself with heavy magnum loads for my magnums. Great powder. >>17136 Lee is fine, I use them. I find they really seat the bullet tightly, more than factory, which is a good thing.
Is there a true and tested method of turning spent rifle cartridges into ˝rimless˝ .45 Colt, or maybe even .454 Casull? My big idea is to trim down a .30-06 (or 8mm Mauser, or 7.62 NATO) case to the correct length, load it with some powder and a .45 boolit, and fire it from a .45 revolver. Of course I'd only use very light target loads and cases snatched from people who are too posh to reload them anyway, but I think I could save quite a lot of money if it works. Do note that I'm a yuropoor and it will take me a few years before I get to the point where I can start shooting, so I won't be able to report back in the near future.
>>17507 And I nearly forgot: an even better idea might be to make target loads for .45 ACP, and then fire those from a revolver with a .45 ACP cylinder.
>>17508 Cutting down old .30-06 cases to be used as .45 isn't anything new. You can run basically anything in those cases.
>>17510 Can you load them up to .45 Super levels? And do they run just fine in semi-autos?
>>17513 I use older 06 brass for .45WM.
>>15146 Keep in mind that like Italy, the Japanese supply system was already choked with several calibers for different weapons. Adding yet another chambering would have been more logistical nightmares.
>>17725 Yes, and they were already producing 8mm Mauser in mainland Asia due to the Chinese using that as their standard. Deleting .303 British in favour of more 8mm Mauser seems more reasonable than adding one more chambering by combining .303 bullets and 8mm cases. Of course one can argue that the Chinese would have an easier time utilizing Japanese arms and ammunition, but this would be also true the other way around.

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