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The pleasure of being **hand**loaded inside Strelok 12/21/2020 (Mon) 21:59:10 No.11298
I don't see a reloading/handloading thread, so it's my turn to make it. Post your hot loads. I've started reloading shotshells, but I'm looking to get into slugs as well I have a rifled barrel for my shotgun, so I'm torn between trying to buy a slug mould that makes calibre slugs, and just dealing with any leading, or taking the more traditional route of sub-calbre slugs and a shot cup. Currently I'm leaning towards going with a .678 ball mould since it's a lot cheaper than the only moulds I can find for calibre slugs ($70 vs $160). Also the .678 ball works out to be just a bit over an ounce, probably closer to an ounce if I'm not using perfectly pure lead. That plus a standard shot cup wad makes finding reloading data easier, as well as saving money on the lead. Is it just me or is the Lyman reloading data very sparse for anything other than light trap loads? Obviously their slug data is only for the 2 types of slug they have moulds for, not surprising. This is making me somewhat cautious of buying the calibre mould since it makes a slug that's heaver than they Lyman foster slugs. Even outside of slugs, once you get into heavier/higher velocity loads there's just a smattering of random recipes. This is a large part of what's driving me towards the ball mould since I can skip the slug section that has very little data and just use 1oz shot load data. I pity the poor guy with a .410 that just wants to load some slugs, they don't even bother offering a section for .410 Anyone have experience with slug making or handloading in general?
>>11298 Most powder manufactures have load data for their powders on site. A book is a good thing to have, having the powder manuals themselves is another.
>>11298 >.410 that just wants to load some slugs Those are just light loaded 45-70.....
>>11327 >.410 slug diameter: .410 >45-70 bullet diameter: .458 I don't know about that, .038 off seems a bit rough on tolerance. And considering the low end of 45-70 loads are double the max chamber pressure for .410, and the cases seem like they would be too big for a .410 chamber, I'm not sure what you're proposing here.
>>11331 I dun goofed. .410 can be fired from a 45-70. So my answer is: just by a 45-70.
>>11346 And then there are those revolver that can fire both .45 Colt and .410 shotshell. But how does this work? If I understand correctly, part of the plastic fits into the rifled area, but it's not in contact with the wall of the chamber.
>>11349 The chambers on 45lc/.410 guns are far longer than what is needed for .45lc so they'll chamber a .410 shell properly.
>>11352 Does it mean that you can chamber .454 Casull in them, and make the cylinder go boom? Also, .45-70 is not straight-walled, is that a problem?
>>11353 I'd presume because the back of the shell especially is lose in the 45-70 chamber, this is basically guaranteed to destroy the hull.
>>11354 This. It will work, but you'll trash your hulls. You could also use brass for shot loads.
>>11357 That works great if you have a 45-70, but is little help for the poor strelok who got a .410, and doesn't want to pay $1-2 per slug
Could somebody tell me the case capacity of .25 ACP? It seems like this is one of the pieces of information that was lost somewhere in the way going from analogue to digital, because no webpage seems to have it.
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Is it difficult to reload .30 carbine? I've heard it was but I was never able to get the exact reason why.
>>11361 As per the Second Edition of Modern Reloading, its useful case capacity is 0.29cc. >>11385 .30 Carbine headspaces off its mouth like any other pistol calibers do. Sorta just need to keep brass around the length required for it to headspace correctly. If you load 9/40/45 you can load .30 no problem. >>11353 You can, but putting something that develops four times the pressure is asking to lose a hand. Isn't there a Judge rated for .454 anyway? .410 shells sorta rattle in a .45-70 chamber. Good luck hitting anything beyond 10 feet though.
>>11389 >You can, but putting something that develops four times the pressure is asking to lose a hand. That's why I wrote the part about the cylinder going boom. You"d think people would have kept Elmer's lessons in mind and make sure you can't turn your revolver into a pipe bomb with one simple trick, but that's clearly not the case. https://invidious.snopyta.org/watch?v=3t5X8f__vpk
I think I've got an odd one: I reload 7.62x39. Since the only gun I have in that caliber is an AR-15, (they're all ARs, and not a one in glorified-22) I've bought the "modified case" to see how long the chamber is -- and the bullet won't touch until COAL of 2.5" On small problem: if I want more than two rounds in my magazine, I'm limited to 2.46" which is the internal length of the D&H/ASC mags I have. Why reload the cheapest surplus round available? Because I want a heavier bullet. Aiming mostly for the 147gr 7.62 NATO pulls that seem to come from decomissioned thai ammo, but the AMAX 155gr is shooting fine too. Quickload says H335 would be the best, but I've used 1680, N110 from vv, and Aliant Reloader-7. I also have BL-C(2) for my grendel which is pretty similar although that chamber shipped at 2.19 and I had to get a throat reamer then didn't check often enough and now I have a 2.7 chamber just like my buddy's 7.62x39. My dream is to build a wildcat starting with 6.8 brass, a 50d neck and 7mm, 200gr Berger or Lapua projectiles. Again, Quickload says that the SF033 used in 5.45 would be the best -- you know, if anybody sold combloc powder separate from the projectiles. Winchester 296 might have come in second, or I might have been thinking of the raptor loads.
>>11608 Curious choice of caliber to reload considering that, what, at least 90% of available ammo is steel case. It would have been a lot easier for you if you had chose the 300 blackout. I have some 300 win mag and 338 win mag reloads that I will chronograph tomorrow
>>11621 >Curious choice of caliber to reload considering that, what, at least 90% of available ammo is steel case. Isn't poor ammo availability one of the big reasons to reload?
>>11634 >Isn't poor ammo availability one of the big reasons to reload? Yes it's one reason why you'd want to reload. Strelok above was just remarking on the odd choice of reloading steel casings since that is significantly more difficult than reloading brass.
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>>11621 90% of already loaded ammunition. I'm going to starline for bucket of brass (thus assured it's boxer primed) so if I find all the pieces afterwords I can reload it a half-to-full dozen times. Now, one site lists in their catalog, primed steel-case. Even if it was berdan primed I could still use it once with a load of my choice, which wouldn't be bad. What you guys should have commented on, if you were going to call me a fag for handloading ammo for my rifle, is I talked about .308 bullets for the x39 -- which is by tradition a .311 bore. Way I figure it, that's a heck of a lot better than the Mini-30 that provided a .308 and didn't bother to research that most-if-not-all off the shelf ammo is forced to size the bullet during firing. So I'm sacrificing some speed, but this particular $60 barrel offers about 4-5MOA with Red Tiger ammo anyway. I might just have to order a custom barrel for a new upper, and remember which one shoots anything, and which to keep the steel-cased surplus away from. >if you had chose the 300 blackout I disagree with the existence of 300BLK for the same reason I contest the existence of Short-and-Weak. The only reason either exist is enough people couldn't wrap their head, or hands, around the original, with which nothing was wrong. x39 on the AR platform is a solved problem. New bolt, magazine, and barrel. Your replacement parts kit needs to be chosen for this understanding as the extractor has enough different of a lip that your .223 extractor will break. Okay? It's not as close as 556/.223 are to each other. Now that we have that established let's work with what we actually have, and what we actually want. Me? I want to have built my AK by now, doggonit. That's why I chose x39 for the AR -- so I could have just one caliber for all my guns. </chuckles nervously>
So I haven't been able to find much but I bought a Mauser 71/84 and wanted to start reloading it. Primers are basically nowhere to be found, the bullets themselves run about $1.00 a pop and brass is similarly expensive. I have never reloaded in my life but wanted to know where I should start or if there was somewhere I should buy brass for long obsolete cartridges from.
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Store gave free box of 30-06 mystery cartridges (filthy, mismatched, and in open container) from an estate they bought with my purchase of a bullet puller. Any advice beyond pull the bullets, dump the powder where I want plants to grow, and reuse the case, primer and bullet (though bullets some look to be in shitty condition)?
>>11857 Midway and Grafs sometimes have it. The thing with the brass is its good for ~5 loadings. You can cut down on bullet cost with a mold. >>11648 I got tired of bolt breakages. Four replacements a year had me toss the x39 and just getting a .300 upper. Also if you're loading heavier x39 Hornady does offer a 150gr .311 bullet so you aren't free boring however little it is with a .310 bore.
>>11876 Right on, I will look there for some brass. I thought black powder brass cartridges were good for shooting until they just flat don't go back into the right shape anymore due to the lower chamber pressures involved. Complete brainlet follow up question but should I be giving blowjobs behind the boomer ranges to get large rifle primers about now? I assume that's what I'm going to need.
>>12010 BP corrosion can and will fuck brass over time. My .45lc lasts maybe 15 reloads where my .45-70 not so much.
>>11862 I wouldn't re-use the primer, not really worth the few cents you save. The powder is more likely to be good probably. You could just try using them as range food, see how poorly they perform.
>>12021 >You could just try using them as range food, see how poorly they perform. In that case he should use them with a bolt-action rifle, that's a safer option and it's also gentler on the brass so he can still reload them.
>>12013 If you clean the brass as soon as it is fired, it should do a little better, but yeah, it's not going to last forever. >>12010 Funnily we have no shortage of primers in leafistan, we're out of everything else including powder, but everyone still seems to have a decent selection of primers. Depends on the cartridges. New reproductions will almost definitely be large rifle boxer, but if you're finding surplus, it will probably be berdan primed, and you will have to drill it out to accept boxer primers. Someone posted instructions back on 8/k/ for doing the conversion on 7.62x54, hopefully someone still has those.
>>12021 >primer >few cents Primers are the real bottleneck to ammo production right now. The only 30-06 (which all this ammo is) that I have is a bolt action though.
>>12029 In the short term, yeah, I guess. But at that point you might want to just try firing a few, it's entirely likely most of them are still good. The powder will probably outlast the primer from what I understand.
>>11862 If you have a brass tumbler just toss the projectiles in there. Pop the primer however you choose and clean that up next, don't try to deprime with live primers though.
>>12013 >>12023 Another 2 probably brainlet questions then. I've seen talk about loading a black powder cartridge with an equivalent load of smokeless powder. Is this a thing that can be done safely in a 133 year old rifle or am I going to blow off my face? The other question is that I see different brass prices Bertram Brass is just over $3 ea at 20 per box on Huntingtons and RCC Brass is $5.41ea with a minimum purchase of 50. Is there an appreciable difference that would make it better for me to buy the more expensive brass or are RCC just up to jewish tricks?
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>>12153 You can yes, people do it for original Trapdoor Springfields, the problem is using jacketed bullets will destroy the soft rifling over time so stick to lead projectiles. I've honestly just stuck to black powder for stuff like that because heavily reduced smokeless loads can and will just get a bullet stuck in the bore. Also when it comes to brass I just use whatever is reasonably priced unless its known for neck/mouth splits or whatever.
>>12153 It has more to do with modern cartridges but there are manufacturing differences that will affect accuracy and minor differences in the loading. If you're not trying to make your rifle have match grade accuracy it doesn't matter much.
>>12273 Good to know thanks. I think as long as my antique can hit a building at 300 yards I'll be happy enough. I was playing with the notion of building a single shot rifle in 11mm Mauser just to give me something else to play with in the cartridge and maybe even hunt with it. That'll be a year or 2 down the road though. >>12154 Does anybody know where one might find the load data for smokeless powder in a black powder cartridge. I really would like to use something a little less corrosive if I could since I never feel absolutely sure that I have cleaned the parts completely. I was going to start casting my own bullets so no jackets of any kind, just soft lead. My dad has done it before and has most of the tools already, I just need a mold but some cunt sniped me on eBay today so the search continues. This is kind of an unrelated note but will a Martini Henry or 45-70 bandolier hold the 11mm Mauser cartridges? I want something to take to the range that's maybe a little more fun that pulling them out of a plastic box.
>>12317 >Does anybody know where one might find the load data for smokeless powder in a black powder cartridge. Don't. Pressure curve is too high. Get a dedicated black powder substitute.

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